Today’s blog post will be focussing on chemical exfoliation.

Usually we use toners as part of our daily skincare routine where we use these aromatic spritzes after cleansing. They tend to be aimed to bring hydration to the skin especially if you are using a bit harsher cleanser, to remove cleanser residues and/ or just to cool and refresh the skin.

In today’s blog post we are bringing you formulation of an exfoliating toner. It’s a product that seems to be very much on demand at the moment. Exfoliating toners are a tad different from toners you’d use as part of your skincare routine. These liquids have acids in them which provide chemical exfoliation to the skin. Many users prefer chemical exfoliants to physical ones, possibly as facial polishes can contain harsh exfoliants. However it really depends on the exfoliating particles and of course, personal preference.

What is an exfoliating toner?

It is a liquid product with water or hydrosol base and added chemical exfoliants aka acids.

For this purpose we can use AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) or BHAs (beta hydroxy acids). However, today we will be using an ingredient called PHA. PHA or polyhydroxy acid is a special kind of AHA. The biggest difference between this and other AHAs is their molecular size. The PHA molecules are bigger, which means they do not penetrate the skin as deep therefore less irritating on the skin. This is why it is often recommended for those with sensitive skin. They do, however, work on the surface of the skin, so don’t think they are not useful.

They are highly recommended to those with sensitive skin, especially if they have tried AHA product and they react to them.

Examples of PHA : gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

Gluconolactone is a white powder that is naturally occurring in fruit and wine (although that is its original form called gluconic acid). Commercially it can be derived from corn. It is used as a moisturiser/humectant, preservative and it also an antioxidant. Due to its exfoliating benefits it helps to achieve a smoother, brighter complexion. We highly recommend it for sensitive skin or for those with rosacea and acne-prone skin.

My trials:

I wanted to create a toner that is exfoliating but I can still use on a regular basis. Many exfoliating toners would contain 5-7% glycolic acid (AHA) but that may not be the best for everyone on a daily basis until they have tried and they know they would not react.

For my base I used 5% butterfly pea infusion. I love the colour it gives which is blue when you make the infusion. As the pH changes, so does the colour. This attribute is often used in the food industry so I thought why not use it here, too.

I knew that natural colour will change or disappear over time so I did a 4-week stability test, just to see how the colour will hold up. Well, disappointing but not surprising.

So now that you know all this, you will have a decision to make. You can either use the infusion and package your creation in a dark bottle which would also mean you cannot enjoy the colour. Alternatively, you can omit the infusion and just use a pure hydrosol or water.

The effect of the toner will not disappear with the colour. :)

THE FORMULA

The base of the exfoliating toner is water and neroli hydrosol. I could have used hydrosol only but I was considering the cost per unit. It is a personal choice.

I also used cucumber glycerite since it is a super soothing ingredient. It is often used in eye care products but really, you cannot go wrong with cucumber extract in any cosmetic product.

For my PHA I used gluconolactone. If you are an experienced formulator, you may have heard of it since it is also used as a preservative ( although it is blended with sodium benzoate and comes under the trade name of Geogard Ultra).

With all acids, the pH is important. I chose to stop at pH 4.2 but you can go as low as 3.5. Acids thrive in lower pH but you need to be careful especially when you choose the preservative and other ingredients. I would not recommend you do so unless you are an advanced formulator. My suggestion for this type of product is to stay between pH3.5-4.5.

Again, I created a formula that is simple but you can personalise with other ingredients to really make the idea yours.

HOW TO USE

Pour a small amount of tonic onto a cotton wool or pad and swipe it over your face avoiding the eye area. Try it first, use it every 2 days and then if your skin handles it well, you can go for daily application.

SOURCING GLUCONOLACTONE

UK: Gracefruit.com

EU: Elemental.eu

US: Lotioncrafter